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Regional Calendars, Climate & DataCrop Calendar for the Pacific Northwest
The Pacific Northwest is really several climates. West of the Cascades, cool soil and wet springs set the pace. East of them, a drier, more continental pattern applies.
Key points
- The Pacific Northwest includes cool, wet and dry, continental climates, so identify yours first.
- West side crops often need soil warming and short-season varieties for heat lovers.
- Use NWS frost probability charts for your station and choose a risk level by crop.
- East side planning revolves around irrigation access and water rules.
- Keep notes on soil warming and frost for your own valley, since local differences are large.
Why is one Pacific Northwest calendar not enough?
The coast and the west side have mild winters and cool summers, while the east side has colder winters, hotter summers and far less rain. A planting date that fits a valley on one side can be wrong for the other. Elevation adds another layer.
Start by identifying which climate you farm in, then look for extension guidance written for that area.
Local advice matters here more than in many regions, since valleys, foothills and coastal strips can differ sharply over short distances.
How does the cool west side change planting?
Oregon State Extension notes that cold rain, wind and cool nights can keep coastal soils cold well into summer. Raised beds warm and dry faster in spring, and clear plastic warms soil most effectively, while black plastic warms soil and suppresses weeds. Cloches and greenhouses extend the season, and heat-loving crops such as tomatoes and peppers may need short-season varieties and protection.
Cool-tolerant crops suit the region well, including root crops, brassicas, lettuce, potatoes and beans.
In wet springs, field access can be as limiting as temperature. Well-drained sites and raised beds let you plant on time, while heavy, wet ground often delays work by weeks.
- Raised beds for earlier warming
- Plastic mulch or covers to warm soil
- Short days-to-maturity varieties for heat lovers
- Windbreaks on exposed sites
How do frost dates work across the region?
Frost risk varies widely. The National Weather Service office in Medford, Oregon, publishes frost and freeze probability charts for southern Oregon and northern California, with a worked example near Medford that shows the 90, 50 and 10 percent dates for frost spreading over several weeks. It also notes that some locations, including Yreka, Klamath Falls and Mount Shasta City, can experience frost year-round.
Find the chart or table for the station nearest your farm and pick the risk level that matches the crop. Ask your extension office which crops and varieties have done well in your valley, since local trial results often beat general regional advice.
What about the drier east side?
Irrigation shapes the calendar on the east side, where rainfall is limited and many crops depend on water from wells or districts. Soil warms faster, and the main limits are spring frost and summer heat. Check local water rules and your district's schedule before planning crops that need water at specific times.
Orchard crops in frost-prone spots face bloom-time frost risk, so site and frost protection matter as much as variety.
In dry areas, orchard and vineyard sites also deal with spring frost at bloom, so extension guidance on site selection and frost protection is worth reading before you plant.
How do you plan transplants and hardening off?
Oregon State Extension recommends hardening off transplants by gradually exposing them to outdoor conditions over several days before planting, and starting transplants from seed to control variety and timing. In cool springs, starting indoors lets you hold plants until soil warms.
Watch soil temperature as well as air temperature, since cold soil can stunt tender transplants even without frost.
Wind can also limit what you plant on exposed sites. Windbreaks and protected locations reduce damage and help keep warmth near the crop, as the Oregon State guide notes for the coast. Keep notes on each transplant date and how the planting responded to the weather that followed.
How do you build your own calendar?
Mark your frost risk dates, then add a row for soil warming with your measured soil temperatures and a row for protection needs. Note rainfall timing so you know when fieldwork stalls and when irrigation begins.
Compare your calendar with the extension guide for your county, and adjust after each season.
What should you check about fall and winter crops?
Mild winters in parts of the region allow hardy crops to stand through the cold season. Check cold tolerance for each crop, and remember that tolerance depends on how long the cold lasts and how well developed the plant is when it arrives.
Plan fall plantings from your first fall frost risk date, and allow extra time because growth slows with shorter days and cooler soil. Extension offices on both sides of the Cascades publish crop-specific guidance for these plantings.
Sources and further reading
Last reviewed: November 2026. Educational information, ranges only. Confirm timing with your county extension office.