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Deep South Planting Calendar

In the Deep South, winter is short and summer is long. A good calendar plans around heat and rain as carefully as it plans around frost.

Key points

  • Plan three seasons: cool, hot and a second warm season.
  • Protect cool-season crops during hard freezes with cloth covers.
  • Drainage and mulch matter as much as planting date.
  • Keep your own planting log to refine the calendar.

How does the Deep South calendar differ?

Across the Gulf coast states, frost may arrive late, leave early and sometimes skip a stretch of winter altogether. That gives growers a winter garden and a very early spring. The tradeoff is long summers with heat that stops some crops from setting fruit and encourages disease and insects.

Think of the year as three seasons: a cool season, a hot season and a second warm season in fall. Each has crops that fit it, and each needs its own plan.

When can you plant in the cool season?

Cool-season crops such as greens, brassicas, onions, carrots and peas fit from fall through winter and into early spring. Hardy greens can be sown in fall and picked through mild winters, with protection during hard freezes.

Frost cloth or row cover protects tender growth on the nights a freeze arrives. Watch the National Weather Service forecast, and cover before sunset so the cloth traps ground heat.

In the milder parts of the Gulf coast, some growers keep a winter bed in production all season by rotating hardy greens and root crops through it. Keep a record of the coldest night each winter so you learn how much protection your site really needs, and compare it with National Weather Service station data.

What do you plant for the hot season?

Heat-loving crops such as okra, southern peas, sweet potatoes, peanuts, melons and eggplant handle summer well. Tomatoes and peppers often set best in spring and again in fall, because very hot days and warm nights interfere with fruit set.

Mulch conserves moisture and cools the root zone. Water deeply and less often, in the early morning, and follow local water rules, since restrictions vary by community and during drought.

How do you plan around rain and flooding?

Heavy summer rains, tropical systems and clay soils make drainage a first-order concern. Raised beds, shaped rows and cover crops that hold soil all reduce losses. Compaction from working wet soil causes problems that last for years.

Rotating crops and spacing plants for airflow help control disease. If a pest or disease needs treatment, ask extension for current recommendations, follow the label, observe pre-harvest intervals and protect pollinators. Applicator licensing varies by state.

When is the second warm season?

As summer heat eases, a second warm season opens for crops such as beans, squash, cucumbers and tomatoes. Count back from your average first fall frost, using the days to maturity listed for each variety, and add extra days because growth slows as days shorten.

Fall planting is also a good time to sow cover crops, which protect soil from winter rains and add organic matter. Use a soil test and local recommendations for any fertilizer or lime decisions; nutrient management rules vary by state.

Where flooding is common, avoid planting your most valuable crop in the lowest ground. Note which parts of the field hold water after a heavy rain, and shift planting plans toward higher ground in wet years.

How do you set up your Deep South calendar?

For example, if your last spring frost usually falls in late February, you might set out tomato transplants a couple of weeks later, then plan a fall crop timed from your first fall frost in late fall or early winter. That is a worked example of the method, not a date for your farm.

Log each planting with its date, the weather that followed and the result. A calendar built from several seasons of notes will serve you better than any generic chart. Confirm details with your county extension office.

Which crops are best matched to the Deep South, and what mistakes should you avoid?

Heat and humidity favor crops that evolved or were bred for them. Okra, southern peas, sweet potatoes, peanuts, melons and sugarcane belong to the region's tradition for good reason. Many leafy and root crops do well in the mild winter.

Variety choice matters more here than in cooler climates. Look for varieties listed as heat tolerant, disease resistant and adapted to your area, and ask the county extension office for the lists they trust.

Common mistakes include planting heat-sensitive crops for summer harvest, working wet clay soil, and skipping mulch. Another is watering lightly every day, which encourages shallow roots, instead of watering deeply on a schedule that suits your soil. Also watch the last freeze in late winter. A string of warm days can trick plants into growth, and a late cold snap then burns tender tissue. Keep cloth cover on hand until your risk is truly past.

When to get local help: Ask your county extension agent or a certified crop adviser which varieties tolerate heat and humidity where you farm.

Sources and further reading

Last reviewed: November 2026. Educational information, ranges only. Confirm timing with your county extension office.

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