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Irrigation, Soil & Fertility TimingDrip Irrigation Calendar
Drip irrigation delivers water slowly to the root zone, which saves water and keeps foliage dry. A calendar for drip is less about watering dates and more about checks, adjustments and maintenance through the year.
Key points
- Start the season with flushing, filter cleaning and a test run.
- Calculate run times from your own system, then verify by digging.
- Shorter, more frequent runs suit sandy soils and young plants.
- Inspect lines weekly and fix clogs and leaks quickly.
- Drain and store the system before freezing weather.
What should you do before the season starts?
Lay out the system and flush the lines before you connect emitters or tape, so debris from winter does not clog them. Check the filter, pressure regulator and any fittings, and replace parts that are cracked or worn.
Run the system for a short test and walk the rows. Look for leaks, uneven wetting patterns and emitters that are not flowing. Fixing those problems before planting is easier than finding them when the crop is in the ground.
- Flush mainlines and submains first.
- Clean or replace filters.
- Check pressure against the manufacturer's range.
How often should you run drip irrigation?
Frequency depends on soil type, crop stage and weather. Drip wets a limited zone, so sandy soils usually need shorter, more frequent runs, while heavier soils can go longer between runs. Extension publications from Florida, Massachusetts and Colorado explain how to work out run times from your system's flow and the crop's water needs.
Because every system is different, calculate run time from your own emitter flow and spacing, and check the result by digging to see how deep and wide the wetted zone reaches.
Do not copy a run time from a neighbor or a label. Two gardens with the same crop can differ greatly in soil, slope and emitter spacing, and the only reliable check is what you find when you dig.
How do crop stages change the plan?
Young transplants and seedlings have small root systems and need frequent light watering near the plant. As roots spread and the canopy grows, you can lengthen the interval and the run. Flowering and fruit sizing are sensitive periods for many vegetables, so avoid letting the soil dry out then.
Check your state's crop guide for the stages that matter for each vegetable, and keep notes on how the plants respond.
Mulch laid over the drip line holds soil moisture and cuts weed pressure, which lowers the water your crop needs and keeps tape from sitting in direct sun.
How do you check that it is working?
Dig a small hole a few hours after a run and feel the soil at root depth. Moisture should reach the roots without puddling on the surface or running far below them. If the top is wet but roots are dry, or the other way around, adjust the run time.
A simple soil moisture meter or tensiometer can help, and a pressure gauge at the end of the line shows whether pressure is steady. Compare readings across the field to find clogged or leaking sections.
Write the readings in a notebook. A change in end-of-line pressure over weeks is an early sign of clogging.
What mid-season maintenance is needed?
Inspect the lines at least weekly during the season. Rodents, cultivation tools and sun can damage tape and tubing, and emitters clog from minerals and algae. Flush the ends of lines periodically as recommended for your water source.
If you inject fertilizer through the system, follow your extension guidance on equipment, backflow protection and flushing. Check state rules on backflow devices, which vary.
How do you shut down for winter?
After the last harvest, drain the lines and remove or protect parts that could crack in freezing weather. Roll up and store drip tape that you will reuse, or remove it for recycling where available. Cap open ends so insects and dirt stay out.
Write notes about what failed and what worked while it is fresh. Those notes become next year's startup checklist.
What mistakes should you avoid?
Running the system on a fixed schedule regardless of rain, skipping filter cleaning, laying too long a run for the pressure available and never checking the wetted zone are common mistakes. Another is relying on drip alone for crops with wide root zones without checking that the wetted area is large enough.
Local water rules and permit requirements vary, so check with your water district or state agency if you use a well or surface source.
Sources and further reading
Last reviewed: November 2026. Educational information, ranges only. Confirm timing with your county extension office.