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Irrigation, Soil & Fertility TimingIrrigation System Maintenance Calendar
A few hours of checking before the season and a monthly walk-through during it save water, protect yields and prevent the freeze damage that destroys lines every winter.
Key points
- Check the controller and flush every zone before you rely on the system.
- Walk each zone monthly; leaks and clogs are cheap to fix early.
- Adjust run times as crop and weather demands change.
- Winterize after the season using a draining method suited to your parts.
- Follow local backflow and water use rules.
What should you do before the season starts?
Utah State University Extension recommends starting with the controller: review its manual, clean out the cabinet and valve box, replace the backup battery and check the wiring. Set the correct time and day before building a schedule, since a clock error can water at the worst hour of the day.
Then inspect the whole system for winter damage: cracked fittings, chewed tubing, displaced heads and buried valve boxes.
Filters need regular attention. Screen and disk filters on drip systems collect debris, and pressure drop across the filter tells you when it needs cleaning. Check manufacturer guidance for the type you have, and keep a spare element.
How do you flush and test the system?
Flush each zone by removing the last head or the end caps and running water briefly, which clears sediment that built up over the winter. Turn the water on slowly to avoid pressure shock to the lines.
Run every zone one at a time and watch it. Look for fine mist, which suggests pressure that is too high, geysers from broken heads, dry spots from clogged emitters and overspray onto pavement. Kansas State University agronomists publish pre-season checklists for center pivots that follow the same logic of checking every component before the crop needs water.
Chemical injection and fertigation systems need extra care. Rinse lines after use, check check-valves and backflow devices, and follow the label and local rules for anything injected into an irrigation line. Backflow rules are set by state and local authorities.
What should you check during the season?
Plan a monthly zone-by-zone check. Look for tilted or sunken heads, pinched or loose drip tubing, missing emitters and filters that need cleaning. Pressure gauges are cheap, and a reading that drifts from your baseline is an early warning of a leak or a clog.
Adjust run times as the weather changes. For example, if you set a schedule in a cool spring, revisit it when summer heat arrives and again in the fall, because crop water use does not stay constant.
Write down start-up and shutdown dates every year. Over time those dates reveal how your climate behaves, and you can plan ahead for the first freeze and the first dry spell.
How do you winterize without damage?
Shut off the main supply, relieve pressure by opening valves, and drain the lines using the drain valves or compressed air. Air blowouts need care, since too much pressure or air velocity can damage parts; hiring someone experienced is a sensible choice if you are unsure. The University of Georgia has a winterizing checklist specifically for drip systems.
Disconnect and store hoses, drain filters, protect backflow devices and turn the controller off. Winterizing dates should follow your first hard freeze, not the calendar, so watch the forecast.
What records and rules apply?
Keep a log of what you replaced and the date, and note pressure, run times and any water meter readings. That history shows when a part is wearing out and when water use jumps unexpectedly.
Backflow prevention, water rights, watering restrictions and well testing requirements vary by state and local water district. Check with your water utility or extension office before changing your system.
Which parts wear out first?
Nozzles, seals, filters, gaskets and tubing are common weak points. Plastic parts degrade in sunlight, rodents chew drip lines and sediment clogs emitters. Keeping a few common spare parts on hand turns a bad morning into a quick fix.
Pumps and motors need their own attention: check for unusual noise, heat or vibration, and follow the maker's service schedule. A pressure gauge on the line, read at the same point each time, catches problems early because a drift from your baseline signals a leak, clog or worn part.
How do you measure whether your system is doing its job?
Uniformity matters as much as total water. A simple catch-can test, placing identical containers across a zone and running the system for a set time, shows whether some areas get much more or less than others. Extension irrigation publications describe the method in detail.
Compare the result with what the crop needs and adjust run times or repair parts. For example, if one corner of a bed keeps wilting while another stays soggy, the pattern points to a pressure or nozzle issue, not a plant problem. Fixing that saves water and improves yield.
Sources and further reading
Last reviewed: November 2026. Educational information, ranges only. Confirm timing with your county extension office.