Home / Guides / Vegetable Crop Calendars (A–C)
Vegetable Crop Calendars (A–C)Kale Planting Calendar for Spring and Fall
Kale is one of the hardiest garden greens, and its best flavor often comes after cold nights, so the fall planting tends to beat the spring one.
Key points
- Plant kale a few weeks before last frost in spring.
- Fall plantings are often sweeter and less buggy.
- Count back from first fall frost for the fall crop.
- Pick lower leaves and leave the growing tip.
- Cover with netting against caterpillars.
When can you plant kale in spring?
Kale seed or transplants can go out a few weeks before the average last spring frost, once the soil can be worked. Young plants shrug off light frost better than many vegetables, though a hard freeze can set back tender seedlings. Check your state guide for the lead time that fits your area.
The point of an early start is to get a harvest before the heat of summer. Kale does not die in warm weather, but leaves turn tougher and stronger in flavor, and insect pressure rises.
Starting a few transplants indoors gives you a head start, and direct seeding a second batch a couple of weeks later spreads out the harvest. If you have room, plant a small block in both seasons and compare. Many gardeners find that the same plants taste noticeably different from one season to the next, and a side by side comparison settles which planting earns the space.
Why does fall kale taste better?
Cool nights and light frost push plants to convert starch into sugar, which many gardeners notice as a sweeter, milder leaf. University extension articles describe this effect, and it is the main reason experienced growers favor a fall planting.
Fall plants also face fewer caterpillars in many regions, since insect numbers decline as the weather cools.
Frost-sweetened leaves are tender enough to eat raw in salads when they are young, while older leaves are better stewed or sauteed.
How do you time a fall planting?
Count back from your first fall frost. Use the days to maturity on the seed packet as a minimum, add a margin for slower growth as days shorten, and the result is your planting date, usually in mid to late summer. Seedlings set out in hot weather need regular water and sometimes shade for a week.
For example, if your first frost usually arrives in late October, you would subtract the days to maturity plus a cushion to find your date. That example only shows the arithmetic, so use your own frost records.
Kale often survives well past the first frost, and in mild-winter regions it can be picked through the cold season. In colder regions, mulch or row cover extends the harvest. Keep a note of the date of each fall planting and when the first hard freeze hit. Over a few seasons you will learn how long your kale can stand in your garden before cold ends the harvest.
- Find your average first fall frost.
- Subtract days to maturity and a margin.
- Water transplants well in summer heat.
- Mulch or cover plants for late harvests.
How do you harvest kale so it keeps producing?
Pick lower, mature leaves and leave the growing tip and a good number of upper leaves in place. The plant keeps making new leaves from the center. Taking too many leaves at once slows growth.
Young leaves are tender and suit salads. Larger leaves are better cooked. Remove yellow leaves and compost them to keep the bed tidy.
For preserving kale, use tested procedures from the National Center for Home Food Preservation or your extension office.
What soil and watering help kale?
Kale likes fertile, well-drained soil and steady moisture. A soil test shows pH and nutrient levels, and your extension office can interpret the results. Nutrient management rules vary by state, so follow local recommendations.
Mulch keeps soil cool and moist in summer and protects roots in winter. Follow local rules on irrigation.
Rotate kale with crops outside the cabbage family to reduce disease and pest buildup. A thin layer of compost around the base midseason gives the plant a gentle boost, and your soil test tells you whether more is needed.
Which pests affect kale?
Cabbage worms, aphids, flea beetles and harlequin bugs are typical. Floating row cover at planting is a common barrier, and regular scouting catches problems while they are small. Hand picking and removing infested leaves are low-input options.
If a pesticide is ever considered, read the label, observe the pre-harvest interval, protect pollinators and check applicator licensing rules. Ask your extension office which pests are active in your area.
Remove old, yellowing leaves, since they shelter pests and disease, and clear the bed at season's end.
Sources and further reading
Last reviewed: November 2026. Educational information, ranges only. Confirm timing with your county extension office.