Home / Guides / Herbs, Flowers & Specialty Crops
Herbs, Flowers & Specialty CropsLavender Planting Calendar
Lavender is a long-lived woody perennial from dry, sunny hillsides. If you copy those conditions, it will reward you for years. If you copy a vegetable bed, it will probably fail in the first wet winter.
Key points
- Plant lavender in spring after frost, in full sun and very well-drained soil.
- Buy named plants or take cuttings for dependable results.
- Prune lightly after flowering and never cut into old bare wood.
- Wet winter soil is the main threat, so drainage matters most.
When should you plant lavender?
Spring is the safest time in most regions. Set out plants after your last frost, once the soil is workable and warming, so roots have a full season to grow before winter. Fall planting works in mild areas with a long autumn, as long as plants have time to settle in before the ground freezes.
Your average frost dates come from the National Weather Service or your county extension office. The USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map describes average annual minimum winter temperature, which tells you whether a lavender type is likely to survive winters. It does not give frost dates or planting dates.
Should you grow lavender from seed or plants?
Seed is slow and plants vary, so most growers buy named plants or take cuttings from a plant they know. Seed started indoors needs patience, and seedlings stay small for a long time. If you try seed, follow the timing on the packet, counted back from your last frost.
Cuttings from healthy, non-flowering stems root in a light, well-drained mix. Planting from nursery stock saves a year or more and gives you a known variety, which matters because types differ in hardiness and flower timing.
If you take cuttings, label them with the parent plant and date, and keep notes on which ones root best. Over time you build a stock of plants adapted to your site.
What soil and site does lavender need?
Penn State Extension describes lavender as a Mediterranean herb that needs full sun and well-drained, dry soil. Poor drainage is the main cause of loss, because roots sitting in cold, wet soil rot over winter. Heavy clay is the biggest challenge.
In clay, build a raised bed or a mound and add coarse material for drainage. A soil test shows pH and nutrient levels, and your extension office can interpret it. Do not add fertilizer or lime without a test, and remember that nutrient management rules vary by state.
- Choose the sunniest, best-drained spot you have.
- Avoid low spots where water collects after rain.
- Keep mulch thin and gritty, not heavy and wet.
- Leave room for air to move between plants.
How do you space and plant lavender?
Check the plant tag for mature size and allow that width, plus a little more. Crowded plants hold humidity around the crown, which encourages disease and rot. Plant at the same depth the plant grew in its pot and water thoroughly to settle the soil.
Keep new plants evenly moist for the first season so roots can establish, then reduce watering. Established lavender tolerates dry spells much better than it tolerates wet feet.
Mulch with gravel or coarse sand if you mulch at all, and keep it pulled back from the crown so the base can dry between rains.
When and how should you prune lavender?
Prune lightly in the first year, mostly to shape. After that, trim stems right after flowering, cutting into green growth and not into old bare wood, which often will not resprout. A light spring tidy, once frost danger has passed, removes winter damage.
Avoid hard pruning late in the season, since fresh growth can be damaged by cold. Cut flowers for drying in the morning once buds show color. If you plan to preserve lavender for food use, rely on tested guidance from your extension office or the National Center for Home Food Preservation.
How do you handle winter and replacement?
Cold alone is rarely the problem. Wet soil, wind and freeze-thaw cycles do the damage. Keep soil on the dry side, avoid heavy mulch on the crown, and in exposed spots use breathable winter protection that breaks the wind without trapping moisture.
Lavender plants decline after several years, becoming woody and sparse. Rooting new cuttings every few years keeps a hedge or row full, so you can replace tired plants before gaps appear.
What problems should you watch for?
Root rot and crown rot in wet soil are the main issues, along with occasional leaf spots and insect feeding. Prevention comes from drainage, spacing and clean-up, and you should ask extension to identify a problem before treating.
If a pesticide is ever considered, the label is the law, pre-harvest intervals apply and applicator licensing varies by state. Lavender flowers attract many bees and other pollinators, so avoid spraying plants in bloom.
Sources and further reading
Last reviewed: November 2026. Educational information, ranges only. Confirm timing with your county extension office.