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Vegetable Crop Calendars (A–C)Fall Vegetable Garden Calendar
A fall garden is planned backward. Start with the date frost usually ends the season, then count back to find when each crop must be in the ground.
Key points
- Count back from first fall frost using days to maturity plus a margin.
- Choose crops that mature in cooling weather.
- Shade and water seedbeds to help seed germinate in hot soil.
- Protect and harvest tender crops ahead of frost.
How do you plan a fall garden?
Look up your average first fall frost from the National Weather Service or your county extension office. For each crop, note the days to maturity on the packet, add one to two weeks of margin because growth slows as days shorten, and subtract the total from the frost date.
For example, if your first frost usually comes in late October and a crop needs 50 days, you would aim to sow by mid to late August with the margin included. This is an example only, so use your own numbers.
Use two lists. The first lists crops and their packet days to maturity. The second lists their sowing deadline after you subtract the days and the margin. Taping that second list in a visible spot keeps you honest in August, when the garden feels like it still has all the time in the world.
Which crops work well in fall?
Radishes, turnips, rutabagas, spinach, lettuce, kale and other greens often thrive as weather cools. Iowa State Extension suggests radishes sown from early to mid-August through mid-September in Iowa, and Alabama Extension suggests September to mid-October in Alabama, a good illustration of how regional the window is.
Parsnips are different. Utah State says they take 100 to 120 days to mature, so they are a spring crop for most gardeners, with fall as the time to enjoy frost-sweetened roots.
Kale, collards, mustard and other cool-season greens are often tolerant of light frost, and many gardeners find the flavor improves after cold nights. Ask your extension office which varieties do well locally.
What about peas in fall?
Results vary by place. Missouri Extension recommends planting fall peas in August, slightly deeper and with extra water until cool weather arrives. Maryland Extension, however, says fall peas often perform poorly there because warm soil hurts germination, heat stresses plants and a killing frost may come before pods mature.
Try a small test planting before committing a whole bed, and ask your extension office what local gardeners have found.
Mark your trial planting with a label and note the sowing date, first harvest and first frost, so the result is a useful data point next year.
How do you get seed to sprout in late summer heat?
Late summer soil can be hot and dry. Water the bed before sowing, keep the surface moist, and shade the row with cloth or a board until seedlings emerge. Remove the cover promptly, since seedlings left under it grow pale and weak.
Utah State notes that parsnip germination falls off when soil is above about 80 degrees, and many cool-season crops behave similarly.
Fall seedbeds also benefit from a light mulch that holds moisture. Pull it back as soon as seedlings appear.
How do you protect fall crops from frost?
Row cover, cold frames and mulch extend the season and protect crops from light frosts. Many greens and root crops tolerate light frost, and some taste better afterward, but a hard freeze can damage even hardy plants.
Watch forecasts and be ready to cover or harvest tender crops. Ventilate covers on mild days so plants do not overheat.
Season extension tools vary in cost and effort. A simple sheet of fabric draped over hoops can add weeks, and a cold frame can add more, but both need venting on warm days. Consider harvesting roots such as turnips and radishes before the ground freezes hard, and keep them cool and moist for short-term storage.
What should you do with warm-season crops at the end?
Harvest tender crops before frost. Winter squash and pumpkins should be cut with stems before a hard freeze and handled with care, as Clemson describes, then cured and stored. Pick green tomatoes if frost threatens and ripen them indoors.
Remove spent plants, since diseased debris can carry problems into next year. Add compost or plant a cover crop to protect bare soil.
Do not forget to pull stakes, cages and drip lines before a hard freeze makes the work miserable. Clean and store them dry.
How do you keep notes for next year?
Record each sowing date, the first harvest and the first frost. A fall garden depends on timing, and notes show whether you started too late or too early.
Ask your county extension office for a local fall planting guide and compare it with your notes.
If you save seed, label packets with the year and variety. Old seed often germinates poorly, which matters most for fall sowings in hot soil.
Timing at a glance
| Item | Window | Caveat |
|---|---|---|
| Fall radishes, Iowa | Sow early to mid-August, staggered through mid-September | Iowa State guidance; check your own first fall frost. |
| Fall radishes, Alabama | September to mid-October | Alabama Extension; adjust to local conditions. |
| Fall peas, Missouri | August | Missouri guidance; Maryland Extension says fall peas often do poorly there, so test locally. |
Sources and further reading
Last reviewed: November 2026. Educational information, ranges only. Confirm timing with your county extension office.