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Vegetable Crop Calendars (A–C)Spring Vegetable Garden Calendar
Spring planting goes in waves, each one released by a different signal. Soil workability starts the first wave, the last frost opens the second, and warm soil releases the third.
Key points
- Use soil workability, last frost and soil temperature, not the calendar alone.
- Sow cool-season crops first, then tender crops after frost, then heat lovers.
- Stagger quick crops and plan what follows each one.
- Keep covers ready for late frost.
What signals tell you it is time to plant?
Three signals matter more than the calendar page: soil that crumbles instead of clumping, your average last spring frost, and soil temperature at planting depth. The National Weather Service or your county extension office can give frost dates, and a cheap soil thermometer covers the rest.
Squeeze a handful of soil. If it breaks apart, it is workable. If it forms a muddy ball, wait. Working wet soil damages structure for the season.
If your garden is new, keep a log from the first day soil thaws. Write down when soil became workable, when frost last occurred and when crops emerged. After one season you will have a calendar that is accurate for your exact site. Also check for standing water and frozen pockets in shaded corners, since those spots stay unworkable longest and should be planted last.
What goes in first?
Cool-season crops lead. University of Maryland Extension says peas can be sown when soil reaches at least 40 degrees. Utah State Extension advises parsnips two to three weeks before the last frost once soil is 40 degrees. Iowa State Extension suggests sowing radishes in early April and every 7 to 10 days through mid-May in Iowa.
Add onions, spinach, lettuce and other hardy greens as soil allows. Nebraska Extension describes onion seed sown from mid to late March in Nebraska, once soil can be worked.
Cool-season sowings do not need perfect weather. Many germinate slowly in cold soil, so be patient after planting and resist the urge to resow too soon. Garlic and overwintered crops, where grown, may already be growing. Give them a gentle weeding and let them lead the season while you wait for soil to open up for the rest.
What goes in after the last frost?
Tomatoes, squash, cucumbers, beans and similar crops follow once frost danger is past. Pepper transplants wait longer, since Minnesota Extension says to wait until nighttime lows are above about 50 degrees.
Harden off transplants for a week or more, plant in late afternoon or on a cloudy day, and keep row cover ready.
A worked example: if your last frost usually falls around the first of May, you might plan tomatoes and squash for the second or third week of May and peppers a bit later, then adjust each by the forecast and the soil. This is an example only, so use your own dates.
What waits until soil is truly warm?
Okra and sweet potatoes want the warmest soil. Oklahoma State advises okra soil at least 70 degrees, and Clemson notes that cold soil can stunt or kill okra seedlings. Melons and similar crops also do better in warm ground.
Planting these early rarely wins time. Cold soil holds crops back, and a later planting often catches up.
Row cover over a new planting adds a few degrees and shields young plants from wind. Remove it when flowers open on crops that need pollinators.
How do you stagger the spring harvest?
Quick crops such as radishes can be resown every 7 to 10 days, as Iowa State suggests. Slower crops go in once.
Plan what follows what. When peas finish in warm weather, put beans or squash into the space.
Keep a list of crops that fail to emerge. Poor stands usually trace back to cold soil, crusting or old seed, and the list shows which problem is yours. A planting sheet by bed, with dates and crops, saves guesswork in June and gives you a record for next year.
How do you prepare beds in spring?
Use a soil test to decide on lime and fertilizer, and follow your local recommendations, since nutrient rules vary by state. Add compost and loosen soil only when it is workable.
Check tools, seed viability and trellis supplies before the rush begins.
Check that your trellis, stakes and cages are ready before plants need them. Setting supports after the fact can damage roots.
What should you watch for in spring weather?
Late frosts and heavy rain are the main hazards. Watch forecasts and keep covers handy. Seed in saturated soil can rot, so patience beats a rushed planting.
Ask your county extension office for a local spring planting guide and compare it with your own notes from previous years.
Pests also start early. Watch for flea beetles on young brassicas and leaf miners on spinach, and call extension for current identification and options, following any label exactly.
Timing at a glance
| Item | Window | Caveat |
|---|---|---|
| Spring radishes, Iowa | Sow in early April, then every 7 to 10 days through mid-May | Iowa State guidance; adjust to your own last frost and soil. |
| Onion seed, Nebraska | Mid to late March once soil can be worked | Nebraska Extension guidance; adjust to local conditions. |
Sources and further reading
Last reviewed: November 2026. Educational information, ranges only. Confirm timing with your county extension office.