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Raspberry Calendar: Summer vs. Fall Bearing

Raspberry canes live two years, and which year they fruit decides how you prune. Once you understand primocanes and floricanes, the calendar makes sense.

Key points

  • Primocanes are first-year canes; floricanes are second-year canes.
  • Summer-bearing types fruit on floricanes; fall-bearing types fruit on primocane tips.
  • Prune right after fruiting for summer types, and in late winter for fall types.
  • Good drainage and open rows prevent most rot.

What are primocanes and floricanes?

A primocane is a first-year cane, and a floricane is a second-year cane. In many raspberries, primocanes grow vegetatively in year one, then become floricanes that fruit in year two and die afterward. Fall-bearing types, also called primocane-fruiting, flower on the tips of first-year canes.

University of Minnesota Extension explains raspberry types this way, and it is the key to every pruning decision that follows.

If you are unsure which type you have, look at where the fruit forms. Fruit at the tips of this year's canes means primocane-fruiting. Fruit along the length of last year's canes means floricane-fruiting.

How do summer-bearing raspberries run through the year?

In summer-bearing plantings, last year's canes flower and fruit in early to midsummer. Right after fruiting, those canes have done their job and are removed, while new canes grow through the rest of summer and fall to carry next year's crop. Extension pruning guides from Minnesota and UConn lay out the sequence.

In late winter, thin the new canes to a manageable number per foot of row and trim the tips as local advice suggests. Do not guess the number; follow your extension office's current recommendation.

A common mistake is leaving all the old canes in place after harvest. They shade the new canes, harbor disease and offer nothing more. Cut them at ground level and remove them from the planting.

How do fall-bearing raspberries run through the year?

Fall-bearing types fruit on the tips of first-year canes in late summer and fall. Many growers cut all canes to the ground in late winter, which gives a single, simple crop. Others keep the lower portion of the cane for a small early crop, which complicates the calendar.

The simple approach suits beginners. Fall fruit can be lost in areas where early frost arrives before the crop is done, so check which varieties ripen early enough for your area.

When should you plant raspberries?

Plant dormant canes in early spring as soon as soil can be worked, or in fall in mild regions. Soil should drain well, since raspberries struggle in wet ground and are susceptible to root rot. A soil test before planting tells you what amendments are needed, and nutrient management rules vary by state.

Avoid sites where tomatoes, potatoes, peppers or eggplant grew recently, because some soil diseases carry over. Ask extension about disease-tested planting stock.

How do you support and train canes?

Most raspberries do better on a simple trellis of posts and wire that keeps canes upright and open to light and air. Narrow rows are easier to manage than a wide thicket. Open rows dry faster, which reduces fruit rot and makes picking easier.

Keep new canes inside a defined row width by removing suckers that wander into the walkways. This is routine work through the growing season.

Check supports before the growing season. Broken wire or leaning posts are much easier to repair before canes are heavy with fruit.

When are raspberries ripe, and what threatens them?

Ripe berries pull easily from the plug and are fully colored. Pick often, since ripe fruit softens and rots within days in warm or wet weather. Chill fruit soon after picking and handle gently.

Spotted wing drosophila, cane diseases and fruit rot are common concerns. Management choices belong to your state extension guide. This page gives no product names or rates. Follow the label, observe pre-harvest intervals and protect pollinators during bloom.

How should you plan the raspberry year?

Late winter is for pruning, thinning and tying. Spring is for planting, weeding and watching frost. Summer is for harvest, removing spent canes and watering during dry spells. Fall is for the late crop, cleanup and winter preparation.

Keep a notebook with first and last pick dates for each variety. Over a few seasons you will see which ones ripen when in your yard.

When to get local help: Ask your county extension office which raspberry varieties are hardy and productive in your area, and how to source disease-tested plants.

Sources and further reading

Last reviewed: November 2026. Educational information, ranges only. Confirm timing with your county extension office.

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