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Strawberry Calendar: June-Bearing vs. Everbearing

Strawberries are sold under three labels that matter on the calendar: June-bearing, everbearing and day-neutral. Each one asks for different timing and care.

What is the difference between the types?

June-bearing plants set flower buds in the short days of late summer and fall, then give one large crop the following spring or early summer. Everbearing types produce a spring crop, a smaller crop later and sometimes a third. Day-neutral plants flower and fruit across the season as long as temperatures are moderate, according to Iowa State's guide to strawberry types.

Choose by what you want. June-bearing gives a concentrated harvest that suits freezing and jam, while day-neutral gives a steady supply for fresh eating.

Many gardeners plant a short row of each type to compare. That costs little and teaches you which one fits your climate, your schedule and your appetite for picking.

When should you plant strawberries?

Oregon State Extension advises planting in early spring, as soon as the soil can be worked. Think in terms of soil conditions and frost, not a calendar date: soil should be workable, not soggy, and plants should go in after the worst of the hard freezes have passed. In mild regions, some growers plant in fall.

If your last spring frost usually falls in late April, for example, you might plan planting in the weeks before and after that date, keeping covers ready. Use your own frost dates and ask extension for local guidance.

If you garden in raised beds or containers, the same logic applies: plant when the medium is workable and protect crowns from hard cold with a layer of straw.

What should you do in the first year?

Most guides suggest removing flowers on June-bearing plants in the first season so the plant puts energy into roots and runners. Day-neutral and everbearing plants may be treated differently, so check your variety's guidance. A strong first year builds a better second-year crop.

Mulch, steady moisture and weed control matter most. Strawberries have shallow roots, so they dry out and compete poorly with weeds.

• Remove first-year blossoms on June-bearing plants, per local advice
• Keep soil evenly moist
• Mulch to suppress weeds

How do you protect blossoms from frost?

Strawberry flowers are tender, and a frost at bloom can blacken the center and ruin fruit. Watch forecasts when plants flower and keep floating row cover or straw ready to protect them overnight. Remove covers during the day when bees need access.

Straw mulch laid over plants in winter and gently pulled aside in spring protects crowns and delays growth slightly. Ask extension about timing for your region.

What is renovation and when does it happen?

After harvest, June-bearing beds are often renovated: leaves are mowed or trimmed, rows are narrowed, weeds removed and plants thinned and fed according to a soil test. Washington State Extension publishes a one-page renovation guide that lays out the steps in order.

Renovation timing follows the end of harvest, not a date. Everbearing and day-neutral plantings are usually renewed more often or replaced after a couple of seasons. Do not apply fertilizer without a soil test, and note that nutrient management rules vary by state.

When are strawberries ripe?

Pick when berries are fully red, including the shoulders near the cap, because berries do not sweeten after picking. Check the patch every day or two in peak season, since ripening is fast in warm weather. Pick in the morning when fruit is cool.

Remove overripe and rotting berries promptly to reduce gray mold. Handle gently and refrigerate soon after picking. For preserving, follow tested procedures from the National Center for Home Food Preservation.

Keep a basket of clean containers at the patch so berries are not piled deep, which crushes the bottom layer. Shallow containers keep fruit in better condition.

• Pick fully red berries, including the shoulders
• Check the patch every day or two at peak
• Remove overripe fruit to cut gray mold
• Chill berries soon after picking

What are common mistakes?

Planting too deep or too shallow is a classic error. The crown should sit at soil level, with roots covered but the growing point exposed. Another mistake is letting runners fill the row until plants are crowded and yields fall.

A third mistake is ignoring disease history. Planting where strawberries, tomatoes, peppers or potatoes grew recently can raise the risk of soil diseases. Rotate, use clean certified plants, and ask extension about local concerns.

• Set the crown at soil level
• Rotate away from tomato family crops
• Start with clean, certified plants

Last reviewed: November 2026. Educational information, ranges only. Confirm timing with your county extension office.

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